Lisbon
A single espresso first thing on an empty stomach is the secret to a long and healthy life. So says 93-year-old Carlos Pina, whose father founded coffee roastery Negrita in 1924 and who still works there. One of only two roasteries left in Lisbon, Negrita is in a former stable in the Graça neighbourhood and has survived because the family own the building: elsewhere across the city rising rents are forcing decades-old businesses to close.
Graça and neighbouring Mouraria are still home to families who shop in local stores, making the two neighbourhoods ideal for Culinary Backstreets: its food tours aim to give visitors an insight into the city history and culture. After breathing in the scent of coffee and roasted spices at Negrita, the tour takes in a traditional cerveceria for plates of clams, velvet crab and prego (steak sandwich). Then there a shot of cherry liqueur at a local corner store and a takeaway grilled chicken eaten in the no-nonsense bar of a neighbourhood association – another fast-disappearing feature of old Lisbon.
Berlin
An influx of creative talent and relatively affordable startup costs have meant the German capital restaurant scene has boomed in recent years. Per Meurling, the Swedish founder of Berlin Food Stories, and Liv Fleischhacker, a food writer and founder of Nosh Berlin, the city only Jewish food festival, are here to help sift through the glut of dining options. Tours kick off at Markthalle Neun, a refurbished food hall in the Kreuzberg area, and encompass everything from a look at Berlin thriving Turkish diaspora – with a stop for döner kebabs and other signature staples, of course – to German classics, such as eisbein (pickled ham hock) and königsberger klopse (veal meatballs in cream sauce) at Max & Moritz. The guides take turns leading tours but each offers insights on how the city history has helped shape its gastronomic present.
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Barcelona
More than mere culinary tours, Devour Barcelona small-group sojourns dive into the history and culture of the city – and steer travellers towards lesser-known local haunts. On a morning stroll on the Tastes & Traditions of Barcelona tour, visitors skip the hordes at Mercat de la Boqueria in favour of a more civilised breakfast of charcuterie, cheeses and cava at Bar Joan at Mercado de Santa Caterina.
After more stops in the El Born neighbourhood, the tour winds toward Barceloneta for vermouth and bombas (meat-and-potato croquettes) at Bodega La Peninsular and squid ink-stained paella at Can Ramonet. In the evening, the Tapas, Taverns & History tour delves into everything from the Spanish Inquisition to the city war. The exact steps vary depending on the guide but may include a visit to Bodega La Palma for cider-braised pork cheeks or a glass of red straight from the barrel with flash-fried anchovies and cumin-scented butifarra sausage at La Plata, a barebones tapas joint that was a favourite of the late Anthony Bourdain.